Back in the saddle: Baking 101 again
December 28th, 2011What a pain in the ass. Bread baking is without a doubt the only thing I’ve ever done and lapsed from that was not “like riding a bicycle.” I had a broken oven in Brooklyn for the last two years leading up to my moving to Ulster County this April.
I didn’t bake over the summer because, well… it was hot and I wasn’t particularly interested.
Finally as the silly season approached we realized it was time for me to get on the stick. So I banged out a couple loaves and… they were awful. Positively abysmal.
No problem. Must be some simple tweak on my part. I’ll just…
crap.
I had failure after failure after failure until I finally decided to roll up my sleeves, forget I knew anything, and start from scratch. It took somewhere between 15 and 20 pounds of flour and a month to get myself even close to where I was before. But finally I can make a reasonable loaf of bread again.
I’m not back to where I was even. But I have the baseline down.
And boy, lemme tell ya, I learnded me a couple things.
10 years of baking notes were totally useless in this process. All the formulae for different loaves of bread, temperature of the oven and time inside, ingredient lists down to the gram… useless.
If you don’t have the “hand art” down, nothing else matters. Not one other thing. You can’t cheat your way out of knowing how dough is supposed to look, feel and behave. There’s nothing I can really write here that will tell you “how hollow” a loaf is supposed to sound when you thump the bottom to determine whether or not it’s time to come out (other than “if you’re not sure, it’s not done.”)
I’ve baked no less than 20 loaves of bread in the last three weeks, all (but for the most recent few) with exactly the same recipe, and only the last 5 came out as reasonable bread. (That recipe is a simple 60-3-3 with King Arthur Bread Flour, Fleischman’s “active dry” yeast, plain morton salt (fancy salt is a steaming bunch of bullshit) and poland spring water.)
I really do wish I could describe what I’ve done differently. I do. Baking a basic loaf of bread is something everyone should be able to do. It’s one of the most wonderfully satisfying activities there is. But I can’t.
I did experiment with the overnight retardation method as a way of removing some of the up front work, and had some success with that. This involves mixing the dough the night before, letting it rise (or not. I’ve had equal success both ways), then putting it in the fridge overnight. It lasts for days before you have to bake it (getting better all the time.)
When you finally decide to bake it (or some of it) you pull it out, form it, coat it with flour, and let it come up to room temperature for a half hour before popping it in the oven (it’s VERY important to score the top, as it will be pretty dry and won’t rise much until it gets in the oven.) Then, tada! Bread.
Frankly I think you miss out on the joy of kneading bread that way, but if it makes the difference between baking and not baking, well… there’s only one choice to make.
So now I’m basically back to baseline. The next legs of learning are going to be getting my sourdough chops and starting to build back up to more interesting ingredient combinations, though I’ll certainly focus more on the former than the latter. The idea that you can take one of the four ingredients OUT of the bread and make it substantially MORE interesting and rich appeals to my sense of minimalism in baking and other hand-art pursuits.
So, start by mixing 1 to 1 flour and water. every day, half it, then re-add more to bring it back up to volume. In a few days it’ll start to get bubbly. A few days after that it should be rising like it was pumped full of yeast. Hopefully by then I’ll have something interesting to post about sourdough.
o/

